My Belle Epoque

Like most trips I've taken recently, I never really want to go at the beginning. But then I go and I have a great time. That's what this trip to Europe was like. I had been to Paris and London already, I didn't need to go again. But I went and had a great time anyway.

This time, the highlight was visiting south of France and meeting The Exchange's family. I've seen cypress trees in Van Gogh's paintings and I looked for wind-blown whirly trees that pierce the French sky. I saw none of course, but when I saw the cypress trees, I knew exactly what they were.

Nature in Canada is wild, savage and solitary. You abandon the confines of the city but think of bundling up and protecting yourself. I love it for tapping the untameable in me. Nature in France is pastoral, peaceful, with villages of stone houses here and there. You stumble upon it gently and think of what fresh fruits and vegetables and wine to get for your family's dinner. I love it for making me feel soft, civilized and connected to the human race.

In southern France, we walked through Uzes. There, narrow cobblestone streets wound through the town, without bright lights and garish signage, just like in a postcard, or the streets of Paris 30 years ago. I met my friend from India there for lunch. In the square where we sat, she pointed out the balcony where they filmed Cyrano de Bergerac with Gerard Depardieu. She was an extra in that film.

Back at The Exchange's father's (our host) home, we climbed a hill at night to visit the medieval village at the top. Many of the houses there looked clean, almost new. In fact, many houses in France have been restored so we didn't see crumbling, decrepit buildings. I was told there's a national movement to preserve houses and buildings in France, but in the south, the annual mistral also blows in and cleans the building surfaces.

We say the way to a man's heart is through his stomach. That is also the way to my heart; the other way is through my head. Our Host entered using both paths. He cooked tremendously simple but delicious meals. For example, he put mussels directly on the grill, and when they open, he drizzled olive oil with chopped garlic and parsley into the shells. Marvelous.

Though a stern-looking man, Our Host possesses much knowledge about everything. He also has a wonderful sense of humour. I learned two important ideas from him.

1. When something reminds us of a childhood experience, that is "ma madeleine de Proust."

2. This simple fact of life: Ce que femme veut, Dieu le veut. A woman's will is God's will. I will etch this in stone in our house.